Escapades

Saturday, October 18, 2014

Rock and Roll Weekend - Cleveland, Ohio - October 2014


Growing up in the 60's, 70's and 80's, music was a huge part of my life.  To this day, whenever I hear a song I am immediately transported back in time to some great memory tied to the song.  Hearing Paul Revere and the Raiders singing "Indian Reservation" takes me to Knott's Berry Farm in the early 70's where my best friend in 8th grade and I saw them performing live!  It was at this first concert experience I was certain that the lead singer, Mark Lindsey looked at me and smiled.  Hearing Queen singing "We Will Rock You" magically takes me to the Los Angeles Forum, where with my best friend from college, we "Clap, Clap, STOMP! Clap, Clap, STOMP!" right along with Freddie Mercury! Hearing Sparks sing, "Cool Places" reminds me of going to Magic Mountain in Valencia, California with my college sweetheart (later becoming my husband) and friends and doing our crazy 80's dance!  (You know the one I'm talking about!)

So, of course, once my husband Gary and I became Empty Nesters, we started tossing out ideas for our bucket list.  With my immense love of all things music, how could a weekend trip to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame not be near the top of any list!?

The location of Cleveland obviously made sense to those wonderful folks who planted this amazing museum in the birthplace of Rock and Roll, however, to a West Coast girl, it seemed rather far away and an awfully expensive trip just to see a museum!  Albeit a ROCK AND ROLL MUSEUM!  We always found excuses to not spend the money -- nothing to do there, so far away, isn't it dangerous? 

So imagine my surprise when my husband surprised me on my birthday with two round trip tickets to Cleveland!?  After a few weeks of research, this is what we discovered during our visit in October, 2014.

Where to Stay:


The Renaissance Cleveland Hotel
http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/clebr-renaissance-cleveland-hotel/


We found The Renaissance Cleveland Hotel to be the perfect location for our 4 nights in Cleveland.  Upon arrival at the Cleveland International Airport, we followed the signs to the train and for $2.25 per person, we were taken within steps of our hotel.  This historic hotel is centrally located in downtown, right next to the Tower Shopping Center, everything is within walking distance especially if you enjoy exploring a new city!

The standard room we booked was actually quite nice!  A large bathroom and sleeping area were more than adequate for the two of us.  A coffee maker with complimentary coffee was an added treat, however the nightly charge for wi-fi in this day and age was ridiculous! One of the best parts of the bathroom was the cupboard space under the sink.  This allowed storing toiletries without having them all over the sink area. The room we had actually had windows out the back which overlooked the pool 9 floors down.  Given that the pool was heated and indoors, it was actually used quite a bit over the weekend and the echo created by the kids playing was very loud early in the morning.  Thank heavens for the earplugs we never leave home without! 



Our room was on the Club floor which included breakfast but only on weekdays. Our guess is that the hotel caters mostly to business clientele and therefore only open Monday through Friday.  The breakfast was excellent!  Scrambled eggs, cereals, breads, juices, coffee, fruit, the whole nine yards!  The staff in the breakfast room were so friendly and warm making us feel like valued guests. On the weekend days, we were able to find nice breakfasts a short walk away.

There is a Lobby Bar and a wonderful large seating area downstairs.  The Lobby Bar has a full menu and the drinks and wine menu will offer something for all tastes.

The hotel front desk was very helpful with directions and any information we needed.  Our late flight home gave us an extra day to explore and the hotel kindly stored our luggage for most of the day.

Where to Eat


Red's, The Steakhouse
http://www.redthesteakhouse.com/

For our first night in Cleveland, after a long day of West Coast to the East traveling, we were craving a thick, juicy, delicious, perfectly prepared filet! Red's, the Steakhouse did not disappoint!  In fact, we both decided it was up there with some of the best steaks we've ever eaten!  Perfectly prepared with a variety of topping and preparation options, you could probably eat here every night and never repeat the steaks alone! With sauces such as Horseradish Crème Fraîche, Bearnaise, Peppercorn, Diane, and gravy along with toppings such as Blackened, Blue Cheese, Au Poivre, or Oscar Style, the combinations are endless.  You can even order them on the side just in case your not very adventurous!  I enjoyed the Oscar Style USDA Prime petite filet and my husband ordered the same but with Peppercorn sauce.  Both steaks were prepared exactly to our request and mouth watering!



The hardest part is deciding which one or two of the amazing side dishes to share.  None of the side dishes is just standard fare.  The sauteed asparagus comes with Bearnaise sauce, the whipped potatoes have truffles, the green beans have pepper flakes, pancetta and pine nuts!  You get the idea.  If you are a foodie, Red's takes dining to a whole new level!

The wine list is presented on an iPad and the selection is large.  Not only that, but there are many reasonably priced wines that won't break the bank and pair excellently with the entrees.


Because our reservation included information that we were celebrating my birthday, they brought out the most amazing dessert.  What tasted and looked like fluffy, solid doughnuts that were served with three different dipping sauces! Heavenly!

The only downside to Red's, the Steakhouse, is that it is an airplane ride away from home!  


Blue Point Grille
http://www.bluepointgrille.com/


Another great find on our Empty Nest Escapade!  After having the best steak in all of Cleveland, how do you top that in the cuisine of seafood?  Blue Point Grille is the answer! Located in the quaint, trendy Warehouse District just a few blocks from the Renaissance, this restaurant was perfect for a fine-dining night out.   We arrived early and enjoyed a glass of champagne at the bar.  The bartender was friendly and warm, suggesting different drinks to try.  Since we were still celebrating my birthday, champagne seemed fitting!  People around the bar were friendly and talkative.  Most seemed to be visitors to the area.  At exactly the time of our reservation, the hostess found us and walked us to our table. We had a lovely street-view booth and probably one of the nicest servers ever!  

We started with the Ahi Tuna Tartare which was served with a Wasabi-Avocado mousse.  A bit on the zesty side, but it was so tasty!  For the main course, I loved the house specialty, the Nag's Head Grouper.  Served with Lobster mashed potatoes and Spinach, it was the perfect size and so mouth-watering. Gary enjoyed the Shrimp and Scallops saying they were some of the best scallops he's eaten.  High praise as he orders them frequently!


The service was personal and friendly.  We enjoyed getting our servers input on various things to do in Cleveland.  We also loved the special touch of the manager coming to our table and talking with us, not just asking how the meal was!  He seemed genuinely grateful for our business!  

Bottom line is if you want great seafood while visiting downtown Cleveland, look no further.  You will not be disappointed!

Lola Bistro, a Michael Symon Restaurant
http://lolabistro.com/

Lola Bistro is perhaps one of the more difficult restaurants in which to get dinner reservations.  I would suggest calling on the day of your arrival and taking the first available.  The difficulty in getting a reservation may be because they had recently opened or because of the familiarity of celebrity chef/owner Michael Symon who appears on "The Chew" television show.  In any case, we were able to secure a table for two on a Saturday night at 9:45 PM!  



Lola Bistro is located in the vibrant bar/restaurant area of 4th Street in downtown Cleveland.  Again, only a short walk away from the Renaissance Cleveland Hotel. We arrived early and were told that it would be closer to our actual reservation time before we would be seated.  The small bar was full so we walked across the street to The Butcher and the Brewer and had a beer and glass of wine before dinner (very loud inside!). Sitting in the front window facing out to 4th Street is great fun as this pedestrian street for perfect for people watching . . .  if you enjoy that kind of thing . . . and who doesn't! 


We returned to the hostess stand a few minutes before our reservation time. We waited another 15 minutes before being taken to our table. Luckily our stomachs were still on west coast time so the lateness of the hour didn't bother us.  People were still arriving for dinner well past the time we had finished!  Our server was the highlight of the night.  She was warm and engaging, interested in what we thought of the meal and quick with great wine and entree selections. 


Unfortunately, the meal failed to live up to its hype.  Maybe it was because we had enjoyed exceptional meals the previous two nights or perhaps is was the curse of many celebrity-owned restaurants, but the food did not impress us. I had the Wild Salmon, served with artichoke and gnocchi and it was so salty that I could hardly taste the fish!  The portion size was usual for high end restaurants, a bit on the small side, but I don't usually eat large amounts so it was plenty.  The value for such a small portion left a bad taste in my mouth, or maybe that was the salt?! My husband ordered the Lamb loin and was also disappointed.  It was tough and a bit overcooked despite ordering it "rare" as our server suggested. Because our server was so wonderful and the ambiance was so very cool, I would recommend a visit. However, I would suggest ordering something different than we did!

Cowell and Hubbard
http://cowellhubbard.com/

Located in what was once Cleveland's premiere jewelry story, Cowell and Hubbard's location in the Playhouse Square makes it an ideal location for pre- or post-theater dining.  During our visit we were lucky enough to secured tickets to see Motown:The Musical -- an excellent selection for a weekend of enjoying music history!  Since the play began at 6:30 we enjoyed an early dinner. Being only steps away from the theater, we were able to enjoy our meal and not feel rushed.  The tables are kind of close together and private conversation is difficult.  The noise level is energetic and the menu offers a large selection of a great variety of seafood, poultry, beef and vegetarian dishes.  

Where to Visit
The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame
http://www.rockhall.com/

Of course, in my humble opinion, no trip to Cleveland would be complete without a visit to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame!  Die hard and not so die hard fans alike will find something of interest in this amazing I.M. Pei designed building (the same architect who designed Paris's Louvre Museum.)  With its 7 stories, 4 theaters and multiple interactive stations, hours can be spent here reliving and rediscovering Rock and Roll's roots!




Located next door to First Energy Stadium, otherwise known as the home of professional football team, The Cleveland Browns, the museum is a nice walk from any downtown hotel. If walking is not in the plans, there are frequent free trolleys that you can hop on that will drop you off right in front of the museum.

Since we realized that one day would not be enough to see and absorb all that this amazing museum has to offer, we decided to purchase a museum membership.  With this membership, you are allowed unlimited visits to the museum within a 12 month period.  Now living in California we realized that another visit within 12 months was probably not going to happen (you never know!) but we knew for sure that we would visit at least 2 days.  The cost for two adult tickets for two days was more than the Duet Rocker membership. With this membership you not only get unlimited free admission for you and one guest, but you also get a free t-shirt, lanyards, decal, invitations to special events and 10% off in the gift store (including online) and snack shop.



The visit begins on the downstairs level.  Room after room of memorabilia explaining the roots of rock and roll and the many inductees is displayed in an eye-catching array! There is an opening film called "Mystery Train" that is recommended to enhance your visit.  


Although there were large walls displayed for Elvis, The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, and Jimmy Hendrix, many other inductees have very little to see.  In fact, I didn't find one item from Queen but their music was found in the interactive listening stations and in some of the films.  



To stop and look at each item in every display case containing costumes, letters, contracts, musical instruments, eye wear, etc. can literally take hours.  Add in the really interesting repeating film loops in each area and the first floor alone took the entire first day!  Be on the lookout for the docents who walk around. They will explain, with great fascination, some of the more obscure items in each case.  This added so much to the enjoyment and I wish they were more readily available.

There is a cafeteria to grab lunch and a huge gift shop with a large selection of t-shirts, CD's, DVD's, posters, baby wear, and just about every collectible under the sun.

One of the more fascinating films runs just over an hour and it is a compilation of the various inductees since the beginning of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame.  Watching rock legends be inducted and perform is a real treat and to sit in the comfy theater after so much time on one's feet is bliss!

We spent about 5 hours over the course of three days just in the museum. Some may say that's too much and other's, not long enough.  That's the beauty of any museum.  Enjoy as needed!

Lake View Cemetery
http://www.lakeviewcemetery.com/index.php


My fascination with cemeteries began on one of our many family trips to Charles City, Iowa.  Something about being a teenager and seeing the final resting places of family that I did and didn't remember as a child captured my attention.  This fascination has continued well into my adulthood and Gary will tell you that no vacation for me is complete without a trip to some historic cemetery, especially where someone famous is buried.  In Cleveland, this historic cemetery would be the Lake View Cemetery.  It is a cab ride away from downtown Cleveland and very close to Little Italy.  Combining these two places in one visit is a perfect day!  


James A. Garfield's monument
Perhaps the most famous person laid to rest at Lake View Cemetery is James A. Garfield, the 20th president of the United States.  Assassinated in 1881, Garfield and his wife Lucretia are buried side by side in a large, beautiful monument. Docents are there to tell you about the history of President Garfield and his lingering health and poor medical care after the assassination.  We found it really unusual and interesting that Garfield's American flag-draped casket, alongside his wife's, are out in the open, downstairs in the crypt. The remains of their daughter and her husband are also found with the coffins.


A larger than life-size marble statue of Garfield stands boldly in the middle of the rotunda when you enter.  Stairs take you up to an outside balcony with beautiful views of Lake Erie (thus the name "Lake View"). 





As we continued our walk, we came upon the grave site of Eliot Ness. His marker is a simple stone with a large plaque that sits alongside one of the main roads.  However, this is just a marker as his ashes were scattered in the small lake just beyond the marker.  A really beautiful trail circles the lake and took us to some beautiful, large mausoleums. Enjoy the solitude of walking the beautiful grounds.  Many other people of note are buried her including John D. Rockefeller, Civil and Revolutionary war soldiers, as well as former Cleveland mayors and citizens of distinction.  Their graves can be found as you stroll the beautiful grounds of Lake View Cemetery.


The Tower City Center

Perhaps the best spot in the city to get a view of all of Cleveland is at the top of the Tower City Center in the Terminal Tower Observation Deck. The deck is only open on weekends (12-5 Saturday and 12-4 Sunday). Tickets to ride the special elevator may be purchased in advance online or in the guest relations office near the casino.  At a cost of only $5 per person, this bargain can't be beat. The large room at the top affords a 360 degree walk around to see every angle out the windows.  A view of the nearby river with it's drawbridges and tugboat-pulled barges is mesmerizing. A security guard sits at the top and he pointed out some really interesting areas.  There are also maps posted on the wall to let you know what you are looking at in the distance.

Sunday, July 13, 2014

It's Nice in Nice, France - July 2014



Nice
Nice is a beautiful city located right along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. Having traveled her with our kids a few years earlier, we decided to make this our final stop, mostly because the airport is so close by making it easier to fly home. Canne is VERY expensive!  Most of the hotels, especially those along the Promendae de Anglaise are well over 500 Euros per night! This may be reasonable for the amazing view of the beach but since we don't generally spend much time in the hotel awake, we preferred something off the beaten path.  Nice's beaches are not like those in Southern California.  Instead of sand, there are small rocks.  Many sunbathers rely on bamboo mats with beach towels to make if more comfortable.  A great majority "rent" lounge chairs along the beach so that they have a place reserved and they are not lying on the rocks. There is a great deal of shopping in Nice and nearby Cannes and it is the usual designer stores . . . Armani, Chanel, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, to name just a few. One of the best reasons to choose Nice is, again, the day trips to nearby areas. I would recommend at least two nights here, possibly up to four.


Where to Stay:

Hotel Villa Rivoli

If you enjoy quaint, old-world charm, look no further than this hotel! We really enjoyed our three night stay at this lovely hotel. Three blocks from the Promenade de Anglaise, the location is perfect. I think the people on TripAdvisor.com who complain about the small room sizes have failed to take into consideration that this is an authentic converted home from the Belle Epoch period. Rooms are on the small side but since we rarely spent time other than to sleep in it, it was more than adequate. We were in a quiet room, # 8 a superior room, and had a window overlooking the beautiful garden. Unfortunately, we were not advised that we needed to request on-site parking in advance, so once we dropped our bags, we went down two blocks and parked in a public garage which, we felt, was very expensive (70 Euros for 3 nights) considering it could've been free had there been room in their lot. (It would be nice if like other hotels we have stayed at, they would've negotiated a better rate with the garage for their guests as they only have 4 spots of their own.) The bed was very comfortable, however, I did not discover the one feather pillow until our second night. The other two pillows were quite hard. The air conditioning worked very well as did the shower and fixtures. I appreciated having a mirror in the room outside of the bath so that I could dry my hair while Gar shaved and showered. We went out to breakfast the first day to find omelets. It cost about the same as eating in the hotel so the next two mornings we ate on the terrace. The soft-boiled eggs were enjoyed by my husband and I made do with pastries, cereals, meats and cheeses. (a very typical French breakfast) Contrary to some other reviews, we did not find the staff here to be rude at all. In fact, they were very helpful and a bit shy. One of their recommended restaurants was a bit more touristy than we prefer so we trusted TA for the next two nights. Whenever we asked for directions, they were very helpful, drawing locations on our map along with the name. We borrowed two straw mats for a day at the beach in Villefranche-sur-mer. (Interestingly, the hotel does not have beach towels in this city known for their beaches? We had to buy a 20 Euro towel to share and lug them home!) I’m sure there are other more outstanding hotels in Nice, in fact, we’ve stayed at one on prior trips with our kids, but they are 500 Euros or more per night and we found the value and service at Hotel Villa Rivoli to be exceptional!

Room Tip: We loved our superior room #8 and would request it again.


Where to Eat:

Coco & Rico

Our hotel recommended this restaurant as it was a short walk away. Glad they did! The service we received here was warm and friendly. Many of the dishes are charcoal smoked and the chicken that I enjoyed was cooked perfectly this way. My husband had the Red Mullet fish and although it tasted really good, he had a difficult time with all the small bones. Perhaps he didn't cut it right but every bite required removal of a small bone from his mouth. The recommended wine was nice and the price reasonable. They are very accommodating here as when we were almost finished, three more couples arrived and they fired the oven back up. Not many places that I've been to would be willing to start service of a meal at 10:30 at night! Definitely worth the visit!

Bistro Saint Louis
We tried this chic little bistro after reading about it on TripAdvisor.com. It was our kind of restaurant! Cute and trendy inside, we were seated in the front window in a cozy, romantic corner! Our server welcomed us warmly and suggested the aperitif de maison, a lovely strawberry puree in some amazing champagne. Far from being a tourist trap, we felt like locals eating here. We both shared some amazing foie gras. (We didn’t really enjoy the toast it came with it but the foie gras was one of the best!) We both opted for the homemade tagliatelle pasta-my husband had mushrooms but they were out of shrimp so I had Iberia ham which made it a bit salty. Nonetheless, it was a large portion and we enjoyed it along with a lovely bottle of regional red wine. We had pre-ordered a soufflé as they needed extra time to prepare it. The restaurant became quite busy and our soufflé was forgotten. Not a problem though as we were quite full and content with our meal. If you are looking for a restaurant that has great service and really good food, this is the place!



Blue Beach (Plage) Restaurant

On our last night of each vacation, we try to find a really nice restaurant in which to recap our adventures.  It doesn't have to be expensive but it has to be "special."  We decided to try one that we were sure would be a "Not-so-good-tourist-trap" only because it overlooked the beautiful Mediterranean Sea!  What a nice surprise! We thought that since we were in Nice, no matter how touristy it may seem, we should have dinner at one of the restaurants on the beach in front of the Promenade de Anglaise. Our hotel recommended the Blue Beach as the one where they send their guests. We arrived around 8:20 without reservations. It was not a problem. We were a bit concerned that the place was not very crowded but wrote it off to it being a Sunday night just before Bastille Day. We were seated at a nice table looking out over the beach. The weather was perfect for dining outside and we enjoyed the setting sun with two Kir Royales. We placed our order and it was served rather quickly. We both ordered the Sole Au Meniere and WOW! I am so happy I didn't have to share! It was by far THE best fish we had eaten the entire trip. De-boned and prepared table-side it melted in our mouths! The au gratin potatoes and the small broccoli quiches complimented it well and the bottle of Cotes du Rhone Rosé was perfection. We shared a small dish of ice cream for dessert and left there so happy! We could not have asked for a better last night meal! 



What to Do:
Driving from Aix-en-Provence, it was fun to stop for lunch in St. Tropez.  The huge yachts that sit right in front of the open air bistros are a feast for the eyes. The traffic is thick and the food is very touristy but it's totally worth it to say you "lunched in St. Tropez!"

Day Trip to Monaco

The train station in Nice is about a 15 minute walk from the Hotel Villa Rivoli. Having a car is not necessary in Monaco . . . unless it's a Lamborghini, Ferrari, Astin Martin or similar car.  The parade of high dollar cars past Monte Carlo is a daily treat.  With dark tinted windows, the drivers would love for you to think they are some celebrity or wealthy yacht owner but in reality, probably not! The cars are beautiful though and tourists by the dozens step out in front of them to catch the perfect photo!  Walking around the Palace, the harbor and the casino, it's easy to see why the wealthy flock here and why the looky-loos do too!  You can walk around the outside of the Monte Carlo casino but it costs money to get into the actual casino.  This little country is a great day trip from Nice and since we had been to Nice before when we weren't empty nesters, this was perfect!



Day Trip to Villefranche-Sur-Mer
On the last day of our two week escapade, we decided a day at the beach would be the perfect preventative measure for the long flight home the next day!  We borrowed some beach mats from the hotel, purchased one large beach towel and some SPF 30 sunscreen and hopped in the car for the short drive to Villefranche-Sur-Mer.  The beaches are rocky and crowded, the parking is difficult, the bathrooms are disgusting, and the water is cold and not so beautiful but it was perfect!  Nothing like experiencing something different and new.  There are people of all sizes, all sorts of bathing suits and optional tops for women!  Great people watching to be had, for sure!  After a few hours in the sun, soaking up the Vitamin D, one's mood can't help but be lifted!  We enjoyed lunch at a nearby, beachfront restaurant, followed by gelato while watching the waves!  Such a memorable, relaxing day.  The perfect ending to our Southern France escapade!





end

Thursday, July 10, 2014

X'd in Aix-en-Provence - July 2014

Aix-en-Provence
Picnicking in the hotel gardens

Aix-en-Provence
This was perhaps my least favorite city in Southern France, chosen only to make the drive to Nice slightly shorter. Let me explain . . . In Aix, the pedestrian streets are jammed with people at all hours of the day and night.  Most of the people seem to be tattooed and pierced art students or lost, wandering tourists. The crossing signals at all corners are three to four people deep, waiting for the green light. Walking through old cobblestone streets would seem to be so romantic, yet the permeating smell of urine somehow erases all evidence of romance.  Graffiti covers many of the back street walls and building, the streets are renamed midway and if you see something you wish to buy, buy it then and there as you will have a most difficult time trying to return.  Dying birds and dead rats are seen along the side of these pedestrian walkways. Everyone seems to be looking at their cellphone so the common occurrence of being bumped by someone not looking where they are going gets to be very annoying. A lot of the restaurants stop serving food between the hours of 2:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m. Instead, many of the youth sit in these sidewalk cafes, drinking beer and rosé and smoking cigarettes.  If one likes the hustle and bustle of a busy street filled with youth, this is your town.  We, however, found it a great location for more day trips! Recommended length of stay three hours but if you plan to do day trips, a couple of nights should suffice!



Where to Stay:


Renaissance Aix-en-Provence
http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/mrsbr-renaissance-aix-en-provence-hotel/ 
Unlike many of the hotels we usually stay in while traveling through France, this hotel has a very American feel to it. It was a nice change of pace to have a wonderful shower in a spacious bathroom with a/c that worked really well and an amazingly comfortable bed! It was an added benefit to have in-room coffee (albeit instant) and large, comfy robes with slippers. It was however, a chore to find. We used our GPS and it tried to take us through a bus station and up a wrong way street. When it said we had arrived at our destination, we looked around and the hotel was nowhere to be found. I walked about 1/2 mile and finally found it. Apparently this is a common problem as they sent their "navigator" with me back to Gar who was in the parked car. 





 



The "navigator" had us follow him on his electric scooter, right to the hotel parking garage! With all the one way streets and roundabouts, it's doubtful we would've found it on our own. Others in the lobby shared they had the same problem in finding the hotel. The hotel is a 10-minute walk to the downtown area. During our visit, the winds were blowing rather strongly. Once inside the city, it diminishes, however the head count goes way up. Not really a fan of this city but the hotel made a great location for day trips to the lavender fields. Lots of dining options, however, be warned . . . the pizzerias will not allow you to order food between 2:30 and 7:00, only drinks! We were treated quite rudely at two places for not knowing this bit of information (later verified by the hotel). We opted to have in-room breakfast rather than the large buffet downstairs. We are not big breakfast eaters and at I think 25 Euros per person, breakfast was cheaper when delivered. If I had a do over, I would skip the city of Aix but we really loved our time at the Renaissance!

Where to Eat:

Hue Cocotte
http://www.restaurant-hue-cocotte-aix-en-provence.com/ 

We made reservations at this restaurant discovered on TripAdvisor through our hotel. The hotel said they send many of their guests here so we knew it would be good. We found that even armed with a map it was difficult to navigate the small ever changing street names of Aix-en-Provence. Even more difficult was finding this small restaurant. Terrace dining is available but the winds prevented us from enjoying the outdoors. Probably a good thing as those who braved the outside all smoked! The owner explains in English, each casserole-like dish from a chalkboard. I ordered the house special, the Hue Cocotte and it was really good. Cod on top of risotto along with mussels. My husband had the duck casserole in a pot and really liked his. The hot lava chocolate cake was a perfect ending. We loved that they poured our bottle of wine into a large wine glass shaped decanter!  The only downside was the walk back to our hotel--a bit scary in this city.


Le Tradizionale
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=fr&sl=fr&tl=en&u=http://www.latradizionale.fr


This little sidewalk cafe caught our eye because it was right across from Hue Cocotte.  Don't bother.  They don't do Italian food well in this restaurant in France! What were we thinking!?!?

What to do:

L'Occitane Factory, Museum, and Garden
http://www.loccitane.com/factory-tour,29,1,2280,106337.htm

I have been a huge fan of all things L'Occitane since our visit to Paris in 2007. The lavender soap has been a staple in my home ever since.  So how in the world could I travel to Provence and not stop at their factory?  Located on the main highway to the lavender fields of Digne, this easy on, easy off location is a perfect place to stretch your legs and get a real introduction to the lavender fields.  The museum is small, more of a walk through reading experience with farm equipment and historical pictures.  The end of the tour lets off in the store with scads of product available for purchase.  Their is no price savings compared to the retail stores and perhaps depending on the exchange rate euro to dollar may be a bit more but free samples abound and for the remainder of our drive, the scent of lavender followed us!







The Lavender Fields of Provence
http://www.theluberon.com/activities/lavender-provence

One of the things I was most looking forward to in Provence was a trip to the lavender fields.  The lavender plants bloom the best during the months of July and August.  Since Aix-en-Provence was such a let down, we were super happy to have our rental car to drive to the fields.  The Luberon is the region that boasts the most lavender fields around.  We took the route toward Digne and began seeing huge fields as early as Valensole.   The beauty and the fragrance are indescribable and pictures do not do it justice!  Be sure to drive past the first several fields as these will be swarming with Japanese tour bus groups, walking all through the fields, taking photos.  There are several opportunities to purchase various lavender products at very reasonable prices but the best souvenir is the memory.  Unfortunately, our memory came with several bee stings but that was our own fault.  We found the most amazing field next to a large field of sunflowers.  Since those are my two favorite flowers, I was in French heaven.  We got out of our car and began walking down the lavender aisles taking pictures of all the flowers and quaint french homes.  It was on our way back to the car that we cut across a row near some bee hives and apparently Gar agitated them by swinging his jacket at them and they attacked!!  I can only imagine what the Japanese tourists thought of the two crazy, screaming, laughing, arm-swinging American tourists running full speed over big rocks back to our car!  Once safely inside, we removed four stingers between us!  Boy! Did they hurt!  Totally worth it though!