Aspen, Colorado
At some point in every empty nester's life, the thrill of an adult getaway encounters a hiccup or two. If one is lucky, a delayed flight, a missed connection or a lost bag is probably as inconvenient as it gets. Sometimes, everything seems to happen all on the same trip! This would be the case in our weekend ski trip to Aspen!
The Christmas after Gar and I celebrated our 30th wedding anniversary, we realized that we didn't really want anything material for gifts. I got this great idea that we could each set up a weekend away for the other, doing something they would really love. This has since evolved into a ski trip for Gar and a beach trip for me!
So this Christmas, I did my research for a variety of ski resorts. Previous trips had included Mammoth (CA), Whistler(BC), Park City (UT) Vail (CO), and Lake Tahoe (NV). Since we are not fond of repeating locations, I decided to try Aspen, Colorado, mostly for the assurance that there would be snow, despite the serious drought in most of the southwest!
On the day of our departure, we decided with such an early flight we would grab something to eat at the airport. Gary went to put the glass coffee pot back in the Mr Coffee coffee maker and misjudged the counter. A simple bump of the pot on our granite counter caused an explosion of glass throughout the entire kitchen! Clean up took more than a few minutes that we had to spare. We quickly loaded our luggage, hopped in the car and sped to the local airport with plenty of time to spare . . . until Gar realized he had left his phone at home in the charger!
Since Gar is a skier and I am not, this is one tool we NEED to be able to meet up during our getaway. So halfway there, we turned around and returned home to retrieve this important part of 21st century life!
When we finally arrived at the counter for United Airlines, we had 44 minutes to spare! Apparently not enough time for the good folks at TSA who have a very strict baggage cutoff time of 45 minutes prior to flight! NO EXCEPTIONS! There was no amount of pleading, begging, bribing, etc that would change the gate agent's mind. We simply had to simmer in our anger while she rebooked both our departing and connecting flight! So, now instead of arriving in Aspen at 1:30 PM, we would get in at 4:30 PM. Not really a big deal but frustrating non the less!
We cleared security, grabbed our Starbucks and Egg McMuffin and waited the extra hour and forty-five minutes. The flight to San Francisco was uneventful. When we arrived, we looked at the information screen to find the gate for our connecting flight. This was when we noticed that our original connecting flight, the one that would put us into Aspen at 1:30 PM had been delayed. We decided to see if there was a chance of being switched back to our original flight.
Sure enough, the gate agent was very accommodating and mentioned something about it was delayed due to weather. This didn't really faze us as all Gar could think about was the possibility of fresh snow for skiing!
We finally boarded an hour later and started getting excited for our getaway. I had already made dinner reservations for 6:30 and we would land in plenty of time to settle in, unpack, relax and maybe walk around the town. You know that expression, "Don't count your chickens before they hatch"? I should've remembered this one!
About 30 minutes prior to our landing the Captain comes on and explains that the weather hasn't really cleared up too much in Aspen and there might be a possibility that we will be diverted to Denver. He assured us he would keep us informed. Fifteen minutes later, he announces that "a small window of opportunity" has appeared and they will be trying to land in Aspen. Everyuone breaks into spontaneous applause. We soon feel the plane descending and everyone is stowing there bags. Suddenly, we are ascending!?!? Five minutes later the Captain comes on the PA to explain that yes, we did have a window but an executive jet snuck in ahead of us and took our only shot! Since there was not enough fuel to circle around and try again, he would be taking us to Denver. A four hour drive from Aspen! So not happy!
Upon arrival at the Denver airport, we were herded into a Customer Service waiting area. The agent finally informed us that they were trying to arrange bus service tonight but if not tonight, first thing in the morning!! We also received a call from the Wild Fig Restaurant confirming our dinner reservations for that night. We explained what happened and she said she was sorry to hear but call when we arrived and we might be able to still have dinner there.
We then got on the phone trying to secure a car rental. After numerous calls with prices ranging from $87 to $199 for one night, we popped on the shuttle to Budget and loaded up our Dodge Avenger with only our carry on luggage and began the four hour drive to Aspen.
Being from Southern California, neither one of us has much experience driving in snow or ice at night. Needless to say, this drive was one of the longest, scariest, most nerve racking rides I've ever taken! There was no time to enjoy the beautiful scenery when your eyes are glued to the car ahead and the snowplows ahead of them!
We finally arrived safely at the Aspen airport at 8:30 PM. We looked through the many suitcases that were in a secured area and the only thing of ours was Gar's skis. Not helping. We got in line and spent forty-five minutes waiting to file a claim for our missed luggage. Apparently Aspen Airport is notorious for closing the runways at the slightest inclination. Could've really appreciated this information PRIOR to making all of our travel plans!
The agent assured us the bags would be delivered to our hotel "soon" despite not knowing where they were exactly! We called the hotel shuttle who then came to pick us up and delivered us to paradise-The Limelight Hotel!!
Where To Stay:
THE LIMELIGHT HOTEL
http://www.limelighthotel.com/
From the moment of our reservation inquiry until our safe return home, the staff at the Limelight Hotel were OUTSTANDING! They were able to take a horrible start to any vacation and completely erase it from our minds! That's a big deal! The front desk staff was so welcoming and friendly, despite my cranky pants mood, and did everything to assure us that the lost luggage would be brought up to our room the moment it arrived. Fortunately, at 1 AM our phone rang and soon someone was at our door with all four pieces! I swear I heard angels sing!
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| The King bed and entry |
Our Superior King room (#437) was large and spacious. There were so many pluses to this room. The bed was so comfortable and the pillows were perfect (I have an issue finding good pillows, so that is saying a lot!). Another great thing is all the storage space. Full size closet, racks and shelves for snow gear, shelves in the bathroom for toiletries and lots of drawers. There is also a kitchenette with dishes, cups, glasses and silverware for four. Each room has a Keurig coffee maker with a variety of Green Mountain Coffee and creams and sugars. Our room had a closed in fireplace with a two hour timer that added such warmth to the room. The best thing about the bathroom is its actually split in two. The main bathroom has a huge tub, two sinks and a walk in shower with all Kohler fixtures. There is a separate toilet and sink that makes it very easy for two people to get ready in the morning!
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| The fireplace, sitting area and balcony |
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| The two sinks and large tub |
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| Walk in shower and shelving |
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| Separate toilet and sink |
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| Kitchenette |
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| Ski storage |
Another great perk to staying at the Limelight is that it is less expensive than many of the glitzy hotels in this very pricey resort town. Included in your room fees is a "resort fee" but this covers the shuttle service that they provide around town. They drove my husband to Snowmass ski resort and me to the golf course to try cross-country skiing. It is recommended to set up arrangements in advance so that they can be sure to have one of the drivers available.
Also included in your room fee is a wonderful breakfast spread each morning. In addition to coffee, steel-cut oatmeal, breads, bagels, muffins, juices, yogurts, fruits and a pancake maker, they rotate a different hot dish each morning. During our stay we had scrambled eggs and bacon on two of the mornings and French Toast Casserole the other day! Along with a good selection of morning papers, its a great way to start the day!
I also was able to use the fitness center while Gar went skiing. They had two elliptical machines, two treadmills, two bikes and a variety of free weights, large balls and a machine. Water and towels are provided and there are fans for when it gets warm. The front desk even arranged to have our room serviced while I was in the gym!
The hotel is centrally located, within walking distance to most restaurants and the service is probably one of the top five hotels we've EVER stayed in! I can't recommend it highly enough!
Where to Eat:
The Wild Fig
http://thewildfig.com/
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| The Wild Fig |
This quaint little restaurant right around the corner from the Limelight Hotel ended up being our favorite restaurant in Aspen. It is tiny inside and reservations are definitely recommended but the coziness only adds to its charm. We felt so at home here that it was difficult not to return every night of our stay . . . and we wish we had! We originally had reservations at 6:30 but due to our plane being diverted, we didn't get into town until almost 9:00 PM. We called and they told us to "come on over". So we did! The very kind young lady at the coat check took our coats with a smile and we were greeted warmly by I think the manager or owner? She made us feel so welcome and asked about our flight. She quickly filled our martini order and let us relax after our hectic travel day. Our server, Tori was attentive and fun and helped us to choose some delicious items from the menu. The homemade parppadelle with porcine mushrooms served with braised short ribs was exceptional and Gar loved that night's special of tenderloins served over risotto. We shared the chocolate decadence and because I had finished my glass of red wine, I had no more to go with the chocolate. Tori offered me "a splash more!" We loved dining at the end of the night when the staff was so relaxed and they were in no rush to get us out. I promise you will not be disappointed with this great little find!
Campo de Fiori
http://www.campodefiori.net/index.html
We decided to go to this restaurant based on a co-worker friend of Gar's. He owns a time-share in Aspen and said this restaurant was one of his favorites. Maybe that made our expectations too high or perhaps it was because it was Super Bowl Sunday but we were very surprised to see only one other table filled when we arrived at 7:00 PM on a Saturday. Apparently it was because of the Super Bowl because by 8:00 the place was quite full. They have fine tasting, typical Italian food. We enjoyed the large portions and the good selection of Italian wines, especially by the glass. I don't think the food compares to the actual Italian food we've enjoyed in Italy but if you're craving Italian, this will fill the need. Service was good, although most of the staff were in the bar watching the game on someone's iPad. It is located within walking distance to the Limelight Hotel so it was nice not having to walk too far in the chilly air. I'm not sure I would go back, however.
Creperie Du Village
http://www.lacreperieduvillage.com/
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| The downstairs entrance |
After settling in with a Kir Royale and the delicious home-made foie gras served with small toasts, we decided to share the Fondue Beef Bourguinonne. This is a platter of diced sirloin, potatoes and vegetables that we speared on a fondue fork and simmered in a fondue pot at our table. It is different and delicious but my husband did not enjoy having to "cook his own food!" The three sauces that accompanied it had to be refilled and the pot had to be reheated during our meal but were both done quickly.
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| Midnight in Paris crepe |
Ajax Tavern
https://www.thelittlenell.com/dining/ajax-tavern
The basis for choosing this place for lunch on our last day was easy. Location, location, location! Right at the bottom of the hill, next to the Silver Queen gondola, this restaurant is a big apres ski place. We were told they had the best cheeseburgers in Aspen, quite possibly the state of Colorado and that is not too far from the truth. Although they reminded me a bit of Five Guys burgers, it was the truffle fries that really knocked them up to a hew level! With a good assortment of beers and wines, we could understand why the attraction after a long day of skiing or boarding! Service was a bit slow but that made it all the more attractive. So fun to people watch the slopes! There are patio heaters that kept us plenty warm on this chilly day and there is indoor dining that looks like it might be really nice for dinner. Would definitely go back just for those fries!
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| Double cheeseburger and truffle fries |
What to do:
The main draw to Aspen is the incredible ski resorts. Although I did not ski, Gar reported that even with no new snow for the month of January, the slopes were well-covered, nicely groomed and well worth the cost. You can buy one lift ticket (this is Aspen, so be warned it is expensive!) and it is good for all the resorts in the area. Gar liked Snowmass the best as there are a variety of skill levels that he could try. He usually snow boards but this time brought his skis. He said some of the resorts have only black diamond runs so plan accordingly!
Aspen Club and Spa
http://www.aspenclub.com/spa-services.html
So what is a spouse supposed to do when she no longer desires to feign interest in standing on two pieces of narrow wood, going madly out of control on frozen rain? Hit the spa, of course. The hotel staff recommended the spa services at the St. Regis but they were already completely booked. She then suggested the Aspen Club and Spa. Although I was incorrectly told it was a 15 minute walk, it was a nice nonetheless at 25 minutes. I was shown to the ladies locker room and told of all the amenities that I could use with my purchase of a spa service. I would have liked to have used the hot tub, the sauna or the fitness facilities but did not bring any clothing to do so. I changed into my robe and waited in a quiet are for my esthetician. She asked what I was hoping to obtain from this custom facial and since she couldn't make me look 20 years younger, I told her to try to make me FEEL 20 years younger! She created a facial for my skin type in the mountain climate. It included cleansing, exfoliation, a mask, toner and hydration. It also included a wonderful neck, face and shoulder massage. The cost was about a third of the St. Regis and a really good value! And I DID feel 20 years younger!
XC Ski Centers - Cross Country Skiing
http://www.aspennordic.com/
After my 50-minute lesson, I was left to my own devices. I actually found cross country skiing quite enjoyable but also quite the workout! Lots of cardio and muscle building. There are two tracks in most areas. This allows you to ski side by side with another skier or to perhaps move out of the way of more experienced skiers! (Although I did learn etiquette states the more experienced skier should be the one to step aside!) 
The whole loop is about 2 1/2 miles but at times it felt much longer! Especially after climbing those "small hills" I mentioned. There are several maps placed around the course so you know exactly where you are at all times and the surrounding views are spectacular! I did find the altitude took a bit of getting used to and it might be easier to try at a lower elevation! 
One last recommendation. Definitely bring a bottle of water and dress on the lighter side. I found the long underwear, turtleneck and ski jacket to be WAY too hot! Ski gloves are a bit too warm, as well, but the liners alone were perfect!
Snow Shoeing
The actual walking in snow shoes is fairly easy, it's again the hills up (down is not a problem!) We were encouraged to stay on the plowed Snow Cat trails but ventured off into the freshly fallen snow for part of our trek. So fun walking on top of the snow. One does not sink too deep while wearing these snow shoes. The views and the solitude made this an amazing adventure!
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