Memories of Milan, Italy - June 2015

Duomo Milano

Having been fortunate enough to travel to Italy on other occasions,  when it came time to planning our 33rd anniversary trip, the toughest part was WHERE in Italy?  We've seen Rome, Florence, Venice, Tuscany, the Amalfi Coast and nearby southern cities . . . what was left?  NORTH!  So once again we pulled out our trusty Rick Steve's map and began plotting.  I really wanted to see Milan and Gar really wanted to see the Dolomites (The Italian Alps). We both wanted to see some wine regions and thought another peak of Venice would be the perfect ending to this trip.  So here is the advice from our latest escapade!

Milan
Airfares are pretty reasonable flying into Milan, as opposed to Rome. By eliminating the train cost from Rome to Milan, not only was it less expensive but it was faster! Once again, I highly recommend a red eye flight.  To hit the ground running early in the morning after a medicinally-aided sleep on the plane is the best way to get over the jet lag. Milan is a large city, similar in size to Bordeaux, France.  There are many different sections to the city such as the designer fashion district, the shopping areas, the historic areas and they are pretty spread out.  Plan for a lot of walking!  A quick city train to Cadorna gets you right to the heart of Milan.

Where to Stay: 

Grand Hotel et de Milan
http://www.grandhoteletdemilan.it/themes/emotion/eng/index.php

The entrance to the Grand Hotel et de Milan

This hotel is the perfect start to any vacation in Milan or Italy for that matter. The rooms are so welcoming and comfortable with plenty of room to spread out. The staff was so warm and friendly after our long flight that we knew we had chosen to perfect hotel out of the thousands available in Milan.  We were upgraded upon arrival and we were so happy with the extra space.  The staff is super helpful with recommendations of things to see and places to eat.  They provide a local map on which they mark clearly the routes to take and where the hotel is located, making finding our way back so much easier! One of our favorite moments of our stay here was returning to our room and finding an iced bottle of Prosecco, compliments of the hotel, for us to celebrate our 33rd wedding anniversary!

The bedroom

The room itself was very comfortable and quiet. Two separate closets, a his and hers so to speak, gave us a lot of room to unpack.  There were robes, hair dryer, a safe and WiFi that worked very well. The bedding was perfect! Very comfortable with a large selection of pillows from the pillow menu! The only downside was the only mirror in the bedroom was on the table top.  I like the ability to dry my hair while someone else is getting ready in the bathroom.  I was able to turn the mirrored table top on its side and use that!

The bathroom had two sinks, a large window shelf to store all of our toiletries and a bidet! The window in the bathroom opened into a private courtyard and the sound of the starlings in the morning added a welcome ambiance to the room!

The bathroom

The shower is very typical of many in Europe.  It has a small plate of glass to stop some of the water from splashing out.  This one worked better than most at keeping the tile floor dry!  





Breakfast is included in the room rate and this is by far one of the nicest breakfasts that we have enjoyed. There is a large buffet with meats, cheeses, yogurts, cereals, juices, breads, etc. A nice touch is the special made to order eggs along with the amazing espresso or cappuccino! There is a dining area near the buffet but we chose to enjoy our breakfast out in the glassed atrium area just off the dining room.  

The breakfast buffet

The lobby bar

Another wonderful feature is the hotel lobby bar.  On a couple of the afternoons, after walking the entire city, we came back to the comfortable couches and enjoyed a Bellini or Rossini! The staff in the bar is very professional and attentive. A perfect way to unwind after a long day and in preparation for a night out!

Bellini's

Rossini's 

Where to Eat:

Bice 
http://www.bicemilano.it/index2_gb.htm

BICE Ristorante

Osso Bucco alla Milanese

This traditional Tuscan restaurant is located in the fashion district, very near our hotel and was the highlight of our dining adventures in Milan.  Not only was the service casual yet attentive, the food was fabulous! This was the perfect place for us to finally try Risotto alla Milanese.  This famous Italian dish is usually served as a first course.  I, however, enjoyed mine as an entree! It is also usually served alongside Ossobucco alla Milanese, which was Gar's preference!  This thick, rice-like grain is slow cooked, usually with some bone marrow and saffron and is exceptionally tasty! Paired it with a lovely red wine and you have the perfect Italian meal.

Risotto alla Milanese

Don Lisander
http://www.ristorantedonlisander.it/

We were told about this restaurant from the hotel staff.  It was located just down the street from the Grand Hotel et de Milan and not too far from the La Scala Theatre.  Since we were both hungry from our overnight travels, we decided this location was perfect. Located off the main street in a quiet, garden setting, this was ideal for lunch.  They are also open for dinner and one would imagine with the addition of candlelight, it would be most romantic!  The service was the type we have come to really appreciate on our European escapades. Slow, not rushed.  After enjoying a glass of Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) we were presented our meals.  Honestly, I don't recall exactly what we ordered. I think I had some kind of pasta with sauce as did Gar but the most memorable part was the ambiance! A wonderful intro to this amazing city!

The entrance to Don Lisan

Inside Don Lisander

View from our table

Nabucco
http://www.nabucco.it/pres_i.html

Nabucco

This charming restaurant was another one of our favorites in Milan.  Located in the heart of the Brera district, snuggled in between the crowded bars and fortune tellers, this charming place offers both inside and al fresco dining.  We opted for the inside dining as like many Italian restaurants, smoking is allowed outside and we preferred the quieter ambiance.  The waiters here are professional, friendly, fun, welcoming, inviting and personable. We felt as though we were dining with family rather than at a restaurant. We started with an Italian favorite, melon and prosciutto and an eggplant starter. We could've stopped there.  Be warned . . . the portions are extremely large and beg to be shared! I loved my Pasta Carbonara and Gar really enjoyed his Bolognese.  The prices are very reasonable and the wine selection is large. Would definitely recommend this place for an authentic Italian meal!


What to do:

Duomo Milano
http://www.duomomilano.it/en/visit-us/

Duomo Milano

This breathtaking cathedral is the second largest cathedral in Italy perhaps the most famous attraction in Milan.  It is located in the historic city center and is near La Scala Theater.  Tickets may be purchased in advance but we did not find this necessary for our visit in June. 

Inside the Duomo

Inside the beautiful cathedral are many well-known monuments and sights. 
Among them the statue of a flayed St. Bartholomew by Marco d'Agrate.  

St Bartholomew

Gargoyles!

Along with visiting the beautiful inside of the cathedral, we found it even more incredible to go up to the rooftop (for an additional fee) and walk around, seeing the city from 45 meters up!  There are sculptures and gargoyles to admire as well as the famous Madonnina, a lovely baroque gilded bronze statue atop the main spire.

Rooftop on the Duomo Milano

The Madonnina

Definitely worth a visit to in the lovely city of Milan.  I would recommend going early morning or late afternoon, but beware there is a last ticket time to the rooftop admission and you may be rushed through so that they may close it punctually!



The Last Supper - Basilica Santa Maria delle Grazie
http://www.milan-museum.com/leonardo-last-supper-cenacolo.php

Leonardo's Last Supper

Entrance

Seeing this famous painting was definitely one of the "Must-Do's" on our ever-growing bucket list!   Located in a small basilica, Leonardo DaVinci's Last Supper is arguably one of the most important masterpieces in the world.  It is highly recommended that you buy tickets before leaving home.  There are many companies that offer the tickets with added-on fees.  Search for the best deal or use the link above to purchase tickets for a specific date and time.  

Basilica Santa Maria delle Grazie

We went early in the morning but since group size is limited as is the time you spend gazing at this remarkable work of art, any time of the day is ideal. You gather in a waiting area, then move to a cooled room prior to entering the basilica.  The painting is on a wall inside the Basilica and is in a temperature controlled environment. Photos are not allowed, however, this is a sight best seen without looking through a lens! 



Castello Sforzesco
http://www.milanocastello.it/

Castello Sforzesco

Built in the 15th century, this castle was one of the largest citadels in all of Europe.  It later became a residence for Francisco Sforza and is now a home to rotating museum displays.  Walking the grounds is interesting.  There are many flora and fauna, as well as roaming the large acreage it is built upon.  A small cafe makes a great stop for espresso. Just exploring the stairs, rooms and gardens can take up most of the morning!  We found it to be very crowded on the several different times we visited it.

Cemeteri Monumentale
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cimitero_Monumentale_di_Milano

Entrance to the Cemeteri Monumentale

Having always had a strange fascination with cemeteries, of course we had to visit one of the two largest in Milan.  This cemetery was designed by architect Carlo Maciachini to consolidate many smaller cemeteries found throughout the city into one area. The Cemeteri Monumentale contains a wide range of classical and contemporary sculptures as well as obelisks, Greek temples and original works of art. Many persons of Italian heritage and fame are buried here but this is not the attraction.  Each final resting place is unique in what is being displayed. There are family mausoleums and individual plots.  There are graves that appear to be a church unto themselves as well as small name plates with photos. There are statues of mourning and statues of celebration and resurrection!  Each unique unto itself.  Honestly,  I could have spent many hours here wandering the quiet lanes, reading the final words or just listening to the birds and breeze but we had a train to catch and I have a husband who puts up with my fascination only to a point!  If this sounds like your cup of tea, then by all means, make a trip out to see it but double check the hours first as they are closed on random holidays and hours can vary.