Escapades

Sunday, July 13, 2014

It's Nice in Nice, France - July 2014



Nice
Nice is a beautiful city located right along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. Having traveled her with our kids a few years earlier, we decided to make this our final stop, mostly because the airport is so close by making it easier to fly home. Canne is VERY expensive!  Most of the hotels, especially those along the Promendae de Anglaise are well over 500 Euros per night! This may be reasonable for the amazing view of the beach but since we don't generally spend much time in the hotel awake, we preferred something off the beaten path.  Nice's beaches are not like those in Southern California.  Instead of sand, there are small rocks.  Many sunbathers rely on bamboo mats with beach towels to make if more comfortable.  A great majority "rent" lounge chairs along the beach so that they have a place reserved and they are not lying on the rocks. There is a great deal of shopping in Nice and nearby Cannes and it is the usual designer stores . . . Armani, Chanel, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, to name just a few. One of the best reasons to choose Nice is, again, the day trips to nearby areas. I would recommend at least two nights here, possibly up to four.


Where to Stay:

Hotel Villa Rivoli

If you enjoy quaint, old-world charm, look no further than this hotel! We really enjoyed our three night stay at this lovely hotel. Three blocks from the Promenade de Anglaise, the location is perfect. I think the people on TripAdvisor.com who complain about the small room sizes have failed to take into consideration that this is an authentic converted home from the Belle Epoch period. Rooms are on the small side but since we rarely spent time other than to sleep in it, it was more than adequate. We were in a quiet room, # 8 a superior room, and had a window overlooking the beautiful garden. Unfortunately, we were not advised that we needed to request on-site parking in advance, so once we dropped our bags, we went down two blocks and parked in a public garage which, we felt, was very expensive (70 Euros for 3 nights) considering it could've been free had there been room in their lot. (It would be nice if like other hotels we have stayed at, they would've negotiated a better rate with the garage for their guests as they only have 4 spots of their own.) The bed was very comfortable, however, I did not discover the one feather pillow until our second night. The other two pillows were quite hard. The air conditioning worked very well as did the shower and fixtures. I appreciated having a mirror in the room outside of the bath so that I could dry my hair while Gar shaved and showered. We went out to breakfast the first day to find omelets. It cost about the same as eating in the hotel so the next two mornings we ate on the terrace. The soft-boiled eggs were enjoyed by my husband and I made do with pastries, cereals, meats and cheeses. (a very typical French breakfast) Contrary to some other reviews, we did not find the staff here to be rude at all. In fact, they were very helpful and a bit shy. One of their recommended restaurants was a bit more touristy than we prefer so we trusted TA for the next two nights. Whenever we asked for directions, they were very helpful, drawing locations on our map along with the name. We borrowed two straw mats for a day at the beach in Villefranche-sur-mer. (Interestingly, the hotel does not have beach towels in this city known for their beaches? We had to buy a 20 Euro towel to share and lug them home!) I’m sure there are other more outstanding hotels in Nice, in fact, we’ve stayed at one on prior trips with our kids, but they are 500 Euros or more per night and we found the value and service at Hotel Villa Rivoli to be exceptional!

Room Tip: We loved our superior room #8 and would request it again.


Where to Eat:

Coco & Rico

Our hotel recommended this restaurant as it was a short walk away. Glad they did! The service we received here was warm and friendly. Many of the dishes are charcoal smoked and the chicken that I enjoyed was cooked perfectly this way. My husband had the Red Mullet fish and although it tasted really good, he had a difficult time with all the small bones. Perhaps he didn't cut it right but every bite required removal of a small bone from his mouth. The recommended wine was nice and the price reasonable. They are very accommodating here as when we were almost finished, three more couples arrived and they fired the oven back up. Not many places that I've been to would be willing to start service of a meal at 10:30 at night! Definitely worth the visit!

Bistro Saint Louis
We tried this chic little bistro after reading about it on TripAdvisor.com. It was our kind of restaurant! Cute and trendy inside, we were seated in the front window in a cozy, romantic corner! Our server welcomed us warmly and suggested the aperitif de maison, a lovely strawberry puree in some amazing champagne. Far from being a tourist trap, we felt like locals eating here. We both shared some amazing foie gras. (We didn’t really enjoy the toast it came with it but the foie gras was one of the best!) We both opted for the homemade tagliatelle pasta-my husband had mushrooms but they were out of shrimp so I had Iberia ham which made it a bit salty. Nonetheless, it was a large portion and we enjoyed it along with a lovely bottle of regional red wine. We had pre-ordered a soufflé as they needed extra time to prepare it. The restaurant became quite busy and our soufflé was forgotten. Not a problem though as we were quite full and content with our meal. If you are looking for a restaurant that has great service and really good food, this is the place!



Blue Beach (Plage) Restaurant

On our last night of each vacation, we try to find a really nice restaurant in which to recap our adventures.  It doesn't have to be expensive but it has to be "special."  We decided to try one that we were sure would be a "Not-so-good-tourist-trap" only because it overlooked the beautiful Mediterranean Sea!  What a nice surprise! We thought that since we were in Nice, no matter how touristy it may seem, we should have dinner at one of the restaurants on the beach in front of the Promenade de Anglaise. Our hotel recommended the Blue Beach as the one where they send their guests. We arrived around 8:20 without reservations. It was not a problem. We were a bit concerned that the place was not very crowded but wrote it off to it being a Sunday night just before Bastille Day. We were seated at a nice table looking out over the beach. The weather was perfect for dining outside and we enjoyed the setting sun with two Kir Royales. We placed our order and it was served rather quickly. We both ordered the Sole Au Meniere and WOW! I am so happy I didn't have to share! It was by far THE best fish we had eaten the entire trip. De-boned and prepared table-side it melted in our mouths! The au gratin potatoes and the small broccoli quiches complimented it well and the bottle of Cotes du Rhone Rosé was perfection. We shared a small dish of ice cream for dessert and left there so happy! We could not have asked for a better last night meal! 



What to Do:
Driving from Aix-en-Provence, it was fun to stop for lunch in St. Tropez.  The huge yachts that sit right in front of the open air bistros are a feast for the eyes. The traffic is thick and the food is very touristy but it's totally worth it to say you "lunched in St. Tropez!"

Day Trip to Monaco

The train station in Nice is about a 15 minute walk from the Hotel Villa Rivoli. Having a car is not necessary in Monaco . . . unless it's a Lamborghini, Ferrari, Astin Martin or similar car.  The parade of high dollar cars past Monte Carlo is a daily treat.  With dark tinted windows, the drivers would love for you to think they are some celebrity or wealthy yacht owner but in reality, probably not! The cars are beautiful though and tourists by the dozens step out in front of them to catch the perfect photo!  Walking around the Palace, the harbor and the casino, it's easy to see why the wealthy flock here and why the looky-loos do too!  You can walk around the outside of the Monte Carlo casino but it costs money to get into the actual casino.  This little country is a great day trip from Nice and since we had been to Nice before when we weren't empty nesters, this was perfect!



Day Trip to Villefranche-Sur-Mer
On the last day of our two week escapade, we decided a day at the beach would be the perfect preventative measure for the long flight home the next day!  We borrowed some beach mats from the hotel, purchased one large beach towel and some SPF 30 sunscreen and hopped in the car for the short drive to Villefranche-Sur-Mer.  The beaches are rocky and crowded, the parking is difficult, the bathrooms are disgusting, and the water is cold and not so beautiful but it was perfect!  Nothing like experiencing something different and new.  There are people of all sizes, all sorts of bathing suits and optional tops for women!  Great people watching to be had, for sure!  After a few hours in the sun, soaking up the Vitamin D, one's mood can't help but be lifted!  We enjoyed lunch at a nearby, beachfront restaurant, followed by gelato while watching the waves!  Such a memorable, relaxing day.  The perfect ending to our Southern France escapade!





end

Thursday, July 10, 2014

X'd in Aix-en-Provence - July 2014

Aix-en-Provence
Picnicking in the hotel gardens

Aix-en-Provence
This was perhaps my least favorite city in Southern France, chosen only to make the drive to Nice slightly shorter. Let me explain . . . In Aix, the pedestrian streets are jammed with people at all hours of the day and night.  Most of the people seem to be tattooed and pierced art students or lost, wandering tourists. The crossing signals at all corners are three to four people deep, waiting for the green light. Walking through old cobblestone streets would seem to be so romantic, yet the permeating smell of urine somehow erases all evidence of romance.  Graffiti covers many of the back street walls and building, the streets are renamed midway and if you see something you wish to buy, buy it then and there as you will have a most difficult time trying to return.  Dying birds and dead rats are seen along the side of these pedestrian walkways. Everyone seems to be looking at their cellphone so the common occurrence of being bumped by someone not looking where they are going gets to be very annoying. A lot of the restaurants stop serving food between the hours of 2:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m. Instead, many of the youth sit in these sidewalk cafes, drinking beer and rosé and smoking cigarettes.  If one likes the hustle and bustle of a busy street filled with youth, this is your town.  We, however, found it a great location for more day trips! Recommended length of stay three hours but if you plan to do day trips, a couple of nights should suffice!



Where to Stay:


Renaissance Aix-en-Provence
http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/mrsbr-renaissance-aix-en-provence-hotel/ 
Unlike many of the hotels we usually stay in while traveling through France, this hotel has a very American feel to it. It was a nice change of pace to have a wonderful shower in a spacious bathroom with a/c that worked really well and an amazingly comfortable bed! It was an added benefit to have in-room coffee (albeit instant) and large, comfy robes with slippers. It was however, a chore to find. We used our GPS and it tried to take us through a bus station and up a wrong way street. When it said we had arrived at our destination, we looked around and the hotel was nowhere to be found. I walked about 1/2 mile and finally found it. Apparently this is a common problem as they sent their "navigator" with me back to Gar who was in the parked car. 





 



The "navigator" had us follow him on his electric scooter, right to the hotel parking garage! With all the one way streets and roundabouts, it's doubtful we would've found it on our own. Others in the lobby shared they had the same problem in finding the hotel. The hotel is a 10-minute walk to the downtown area. During our visit, the winds were blowing rather strongly. Once inside the city, it diminishes, however the head count goes way up. Not really a fan of this city but the hotel made a great location for day trips to the lavender fields. Lots of dining options, however, be warned . . . the pizzerias will not allow you to order food between 2:30 and 7:00, only drinks! We were treated quite rudely at two places for not knowing this bit of information (later verified by the hotel). We opted to have in-room breakfast rather than the large buffet downstairs. We are not big breakfast eaters and at I think 25 Euros per person, breakfast was cheaper when delivered. If I had a do over, I would skip the city of Aix but we really loved our time at the Renaissance!

Where to Eat:

Hue Cocotte
http://www.restaurant-hue-cocotte-aix-en-provence.com/ 

We made reservations at this restaurant discovered on TripAdvisor through our hotel. The hotel said they send many of their guests here so we knew it would be good. We found that even armed with a map it was difficult to navigate the small ever changing street names of Aix-en-Provence. Even more difficult was finding this small restaurant. Terrace dining is available but the winds prevented us from enjoying the outdoors. Probably a good thing as those who braved the outside all smoked! The owner explains in English, each casserole-like dish from a chalkboard. I ordered the house special, the Hue Cocotte and it was really good. Cod on top of risotto along with mussels. My husband had the duck casserole in a pot and really liked his. The hot lava chocolate cake was a perfect ending. We loved that they poured our bottle of wine into a large wine glass shaped decanter!  The only downside was the walk back to our hotel--a bit scary in this city.


Le Tradizionale
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=fr&sl=fr&tl=en&u=http://www.latradizionale.fr


This little sidewalk cafe caught our eye because it was right across from Hue Cocotte.  Don't bother.  They don't do Italian food well in this restaurant in France! What were we thinking!?!?

What to do:

L'Occitane Factory, Museum, and Garden
http://www.loccitane.com/factory-tour,29,1,2280,106337.htm

I have been a huge fan of all things L'Occitane since our visit to Paris in 2007. The lavender soap has been a staple in my home ever since.  So how in the world could I travel to Provence and not stop at their factory?  Located on the main highway to the lavender fields of Digne, this easy on, easy off location is a perfect place to stretch your legs and get a real introduction to the lavender fields.  The museum is small, more of a walk through reading experience with farm equipment and historical pictures.  The end of the tour lets off in the store with scads of product available for purchase.  Their is no price savings compared to the retail stores and perhaps depending on the exchange rate euro to dollar may be a bit more but free samples abound and for the remainder of our drive, the scent of lavender followed us!







The Lavender Fields of Provence
http://www.theluberon.com/activities/lavender-provence

One of the things I was most looking forward to in Provence was a trip to the lavender fields.  The lavender plants bloom the best during the months of July and August.  Since Aix-en-Provence was such a let down, we were super happy to have our rental car to drive to the fields.  The Luberon is the region that boasts the most lavender fields around.  We took the route toward Digne and began seeing huge fields as early as Valensole.   The beauty and the fragrance are indescribable and pictures do not do it justice!  Be sure to drive past the first several fields as these will be swarming with Japanese tour bus groups, walking all through the fields, taking photos.  There are several opportunities to purchase various lavender products at very reasonable prices but the best souvenir is the memory.  Unfortunately, our memory came with several bee stings but that was our own fault.  We found the most amazing field next to a large field of sunflowers.  Since those are my two favorite flowers, I was in French heaven.  We got out of our car and began walking down the lavender aisles taking pictures of all the flowers and quaint french homes.  It was on our way back to the car that we cut across a row near some bee hives and apparently Gar agitated them by swinging his jacket at them and they attacked!!  I can only imagine what the Japanese tourists thought of the two crazy, screaming, laughing, arm-swinging American tourists running full speed over big rocks back to our car!  Once safely inside, we removed four stingers between us!  Boy! Did they hurt!  Totally worth it though!





Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Picnicing in Provence - July 2014

Les Baux de Provence
This little village in France was recommended to us by dear friend and fellow traveling aficionado, Charmaine.  She has given us a wealth of information about places to stay in Ireland and they were such a perfect fit, we knew she would be our go-to source for Provence.  She did not let us down.  Les Baux de Provence is an ideal location for exploring the French countryside.  During the day, the nearby Chateau is bustling with tourists and buses but come nightfall, it is so very quiet and peaceful.  Day trips to St. Remy, Orange, Arles, Pont du Gard and Avignon are are easily traveled with a rental car. The option of exploring the Chateau early, before tour buses arrive, is made easier since it is just 15 minutes away.  

Where to Stay:

Hotel Benvengudo
http://www.benvengudo.com/

Located in the heart of Provence, this hotel was recommended to us by a dear friend who had stayed there a few years ago. We were not disappointed. We had one of the newer, remodeled rooms in the main house and found it nearly perfect for our 3 night stay. Our welcome was warm and friendly and we were shown to our room which was just off the main courtyard. The room was very big with plenty of hanging space and shelves for our clothes. We really liked the shelves under the bathroom sink so we could put our toiletries away from the splash of the sink. The shower is a large and tiled with a rain forest-type head. The liquid soap dispenser in the shower does not appear to be filled but thankfully we had purchased lavender soap prior to our arrival. We really liked that the toilet was in a separate room from the bathroom, enabling the other person to get ready while one was in the shower.


The bed was comfortable and the pillows soft. The Wi-Fi worked well and there was hot tea available along with a mini bar with drinks for purchase. Our only complaint about our room (#7) was that whenever the toilet was flushed, a nasty sewer smell would come out of the sink or shower drain in the other bathroom. We told the staff about this the next afternoon and they offered to move rooms. The other room only had a tub and wand type shower so we opted to stay put and asked that it be fixed. Unfortunately, it never was. The smell was so bad when the doors were closed for the night that it woke us up! Upon check out, we reminded them of the problem and they said they would fix it for future guests. The restaurant was very nice and we liked getting a bit dressed up for our meal. We shared a starter of foie gras and a dessert with each of us ordering our own entree (I had sea bass and Gar had duck).
 
The meal was okay, nothing like some of the other amazing French food we had enjoyed but the meal was convenient after a long day of driving. The hotel is located fairly close to the hilltop city of Les Baux, to which we would definitely recommend a visit. Being so close allows you to arrive at 9:00 AM, before the buses and crowds begin at 10:30 AM. The hotel is also a convenient day trip drive to neighboring St Remy and Orange.

Room Tip: The rooms in the main house are all recently remodeled however I would recommend Room 7 only if they fixed the smell.

Where to Eat:

La Cabro d'or
http://www.lacabrodor.com/en/restaurant/intimate-elegance


This one star Michelin restaurant was located in a luxurious 5 star Relais & Châteaux hotel near the Hotel Benvengudo, where we were staying. I made reservations on line but while using a site that was all French, I accidentally made them for the next night. When we arrived, they had no record of our reservation but were more than kind to give us a lovely table. The mistake was later discovered and removed from the next night, although we would have gladly eaten here again! We ate in an atrium-like room overlooking the pond on the hotel grounds. A beautiful setting to enjoy dinner! The John Dory fish was awesome but a bit pricey at 50 Euros for just the entrée and vegetables, but it was some of the best fish I ever have enjoyed! The aperitif de maison (house aperitif) was an apple flavored drink made with regional Calvados brandy and it was delicious. Service was attentive but not intrusive and it was well-paced. As the restaurant got busier, we poured our own wine and enjoyed the relaxing atmosphere. There are not many restaurants in this quiet little town of Les Baux and this one is definitely worth the stop. You won’t be disappointed!







Les Cafe Des Baux
http://www.cafedesbaux.com/anglais.html 

We loved the location of this restaurant! It was just outside the old city
walls of Chateau Les Baux. We went there for dinner as we were staying in a nearby hotel. Once the crowds leave this amazing medieval city, it is exciting to roam the empty streets. This charming restaurant has terrace dining but unfortunately, as soon as we ordered, the Mistral winds began howling and we had to move inside. It was a bit dark inside and it would've been more enjoyable to eat outside, however, the food was amazing. The beef with gravy that I enjoyed was as delicious as the lamb and veggies my husband chose. Very little English is spoken here which was surprising since it's located right inside a major tourist site. None the less, we were able to communicate well enough and enjoyed their recommendation of a very good regional wine. It was quite busy at lunch so we really enjoyed the quietness at dinnertime!

What to Do:

This area of Provence is PERFECT for exploring the region.  There are so many day trips possible that one could probably spend a whole week here and still not see everything.  These are the escapades that we discovered and would recommend to first time visitors.

Abbaye Norte-Dame en Senanque
http://www.senanque.fr/PBCPPlayer.asp?ID=1461407



This small community of Cistercian monks is a MUST-SEE for anyone visiting this area during July and August.  This is when the lavender is at full bloom!  The Abbaye is not a tourist site or museum but an actual monastery.  Tours are available but only in French.  We did not find it necessary to have a guide as the 12th century buildings: you can see the church, the cloister, the chapter-hall, the warming room and the ancient dormitory, are all very simple.  The real attraction for me was the amazing fields of lavender!  The monks harvest the plants and make products such as oil, soap, perfume, etc and sell it in their small gift shop.  The proceeds help keep the monastery operating. Be aware: Proper dress is required, we saw many of the bike riders famous in this area turned away due to their biking outfits.  Also, visiting hours are very limited and can be found on their web site. The drive is through some beautiful, winding, steep roads (thus the bicycling attraction) and it is somewhat off the beaten track but definitely worth the effort. 

After leaving the Abbaye, the small medieval hilltop city of Gordes is a perfect stop for lunch.  (L'Artegal being our choice!)  On the way back to Les Baux, we stopped in the small city of St. Remy de Provence for some cobblestone street shopping.  Perfect for a leg stretch and a glass of rosé!



Chateau Les Baux
http://www.chateau-baux-provence.com/en/home 
We didn't really know what to expect when visiting this medieval hilltop city. 
The ruins are fairly well preserved and the addition of a catapult show, a knight's dual and cross bow shooting, history really came alive. Beware, there are a lot of steps (some quite slippery and high) and the Mistral winds add a certain element of danger when up on top of the ruins.
Definitely get the free audio guide as it really added to our enjoyment of the day here. Some hints: Get there early! It opens at 9 AM and most tour buses arrive around 10:30. Also, don't wear sundresses as it is quite windy and you really need to hold onto the railings, not your hem! Also, if you wish to shoot the cross bow, it closes during the knight's dual performance. Leave that a bit early and get into line quickly otherwise you will wait a very long time to shoot two arrows!  


We spent easily 3 hours exploring the many nooks and crannies, listening to the fascinating audio guide and just taking in the panoramic views.  As the day goes on, it gets more crowded making it difficult to get the great photos or to the top of a ruin but still worth a visit!  There are shops and restaurants just outside the entrance that sell many local crafts and souvenirs.  It's so fun to stroll the streets of what was once the local market. There are several restaurants as well as stalls for faster food so plan on staying for lunch.  The views from many nooks and seating areas is breathtaking. 
Heads up: Parking can be tough and there is a fee so plan accordingly by bringing coins for the meter.












Picnicking in Provence



No trip to Provence would be complete without a picnic!  We had a couple of opportunities to enjoy this beautiful countryside with a small picnic lunch and an amazing bottle of regional Rosé. 
Ham and cheese on a baquette tastes incredible outdoors!  Sandwiches can be found in just about any small bakery in any small town.  We found lavender ice cream on our picnic near the lavender fields of Valensole.  Grab a blanket and find an olive grove or a lavender field and enjoy the quiet solitude of the French countryside!  It will be one of the best, cheapest escapades you will enjoy!






Theatre Antique
http://www.theatre-antique.com/en/home

This arena is similar to the Coloseum in Rome but on a much smaller, better preserved scale. It is is definitely worth a visit.  Conveniently located in Provence, it is an easy drive from either Les Baux or Aix en Provence.  We really found the audio guide added a lot to our enjoyment of the grounds and helped with exploring the various areas.  They still have concerts that are held there and I can only imagine how amazing it would be to experience one!