This little village in France was recommended to us by dear friend and fellow traveling aficionado, Charmaine. She has given us a wealth of information about places to stay in Ireland and they were such a perfect fit, we knew she would be our go-to source for Provence. She did not let us down. Les Baux de Provence is an ideal location for exploring the French countryside. During the day, the nearby Chateau is bustling with tourists and buses but come nightfall, it is so very quiet and peaceful. Day trips to St. Remy, Orange, Arles, Pont du Gard and Avignon are are easily traveled with a rental car. The option of exploring the Chateau early, before tour buses arrive, is made easier since it is just 15 minutes away.
Where to Stay:
Hotel Benvengudo
http://www.benvengudo.com/
Located in the heart of Provence, this hotel was recommended to us by a dear friend who had stayed there a few years ago. We were not disappointed. We had one of the newer, remodeled rooms in the main house and found it nearly perfect for our 3 night stay. Our welcome was warm and friendly and we were shown to our room which was just off the main courtyard. The room was very big with plenty of hanging space and shelves for our clothes. We really liked the shelves under the bathroom sink so we could put our toiletries away from the splash of the sink. The shower is a large and tiled with a rain forest-type head. The liquid soap dispenser in the shower does not appear to be filled but thankfully we had purchased lavender soap prior to our arrival. We really liked that the toilet was in a separate room from the bathroom, enabling the other person to get ready while one was in the shower.
The bed was comfortable and the pillows soft. The Wi-Fi worked well and there was hot tea available along with a mini bar with drinks for purchase. Our only complaint about our room (#7) was that whenever the toilet was flushed, a nasty sewer smell would come out of the sink or shower drain in the other bathroom. We told the staff about this the next afternoon and they offered to move rooms. The other room only had a tub and wand type shower so we opted to stay put and asked that it be fixed. Unfortunately, it never was. The smell was so bad when the doors were closed for the night that it woke us up! Upon check out, we reminded them of the problem and they said they would fix it for future guests. The restaurant was very nice and we liked getting a bit dressed up for our meal. We shared a starter of foie gras and a dessert with each of us ordering our own entree (I had sea bass and Gar had duck).
The meal was okay, nothing like some of the other amazing French food we had enjoyed but the meal was convenient after a long day of driving. The hotel is located fairly close to the hilltop city of Les Baux, to which we would definitely recommend a visit. Being so close allows you to arrive at 9:00 AM, before the buses and crowds begin at 10:30 AM. The hotel is also a convenient day trip drive to neighboring St Remy and Orange.
Room Tip: The rooms in the main house are all recently remodeled however I would recommend Room 7 only if they fixed the smell.
Where to Eat:
La Cabro d'or
http://www.lacabrodor.com/en/restaurant/intimate-elegance
This one star Michelin restaurant was located in a luxurious 5 star Relais & Châteaux hotel near the Hotel Benvengudo, where we were staying. I made reservations on line but while using a site that was all French, I accidentally made them for the next night. When we arrived, they had no record of our reservation but were more than kind to give us a lovely table. The mistake was later discovered and removed from the next night, although we would have gladly eaten here again! We ate in an atrium-like room overlooking the pond on the hotel grounds. A beautiful setting to enjoy dinner! The John Dory fish was awesome but a bit pricey at 50 Euros for just the entrée and vegetables, but it was some of the best fish I ever have enjoyed! The aperitif de maison (house aperitif) was an apple flavored drink made with regional Calvados brandy and it was delicious. Service was attentive but not intrusive and it was well-paced. As the restaurant got busier, we poured our own wine and enjoyed the relaxing atmosphere. There are not many restaurants in this quiet little town of Les Baux and this one is definitely worth the stop. You won’t be disappointed!
Les Cafe Des Baux
http://www.cafedesbaux.com/anglais.html
We loved the location of this restaurant! It was just outside the old city
What to Do:
This area of Provence is PERFECT for exploring the region. There are so many day trips possible that one could probably spend a whole week here and still not see everything. These are the escapades that we discovered and would recommend to first time visitors.
Abbaye Norte-Dame en Senanque
http://www.senanque.fr/PBCPPlayer.asp?ID=1461407
This small community of Cistercian monks is a MUST-SEE for anyone visiting this area during July and August. This is when the lavender is at full bloom! The Abbaye is not a tourist site or museum but an actual monastery. Tours are available but only in French. We did not find it necessary to have a guide as the 12th century buildings: you can see the church, the cloister, the chapter-hall, the warming room and the ancient dormitory, are all very simple. The real attraction for me was the amazing fields of lavender! The monks harvest the plants and make products such as oil, soap, perfume, etc and sell it in their small gift shop. The proceeds help keep the monastery operating. Be aware: Proper dress is required, we saw many of the bike riders famous in this area turned away due to their biking outfits. Also, visiting hours are very limited and can be found on their web site. The drive is through some beautiful, winding, steep roads (thus the bicycling attraction) and it is somewhat off the beaten track but definitely worth the effort.
After leaving the Abbaye, the small medieval hilltop city of Gordes is a perfect stop for lunch. (L'Artegal being our choice!) On the way back to Les Baux, we stopped in the small city of St. Remy de Provence for some cobblestone street shopping. Perfect for a leg stretch and a glass of rosé!
Chateau Les Baux
http://www.chateau-baux-provence.com/en/home
We didn't really know what to expect when visiting this medieval hilltop city.
The ruins are fairly well preserved and the addition of a catapult show, a knight's dual and cross bow shooting, history really came alive. Beware, there are a lot of steps (some quite slippery and high) and the Mistral winds add a certain element of danger when up on top of the ruins.
Definitely get the free audio guide as it really added to our enjoyment of the day here. Some hints: Get there early! It opens at 9 AM and most tour buses arrive around 10:30. Also, don't wear sundresses as it is quite windy and you really need to hold onto the railings, not your hem! Also, if you wish to shoot the cross bow, it closes during the knight's dual performance. Leave that a bit early and get into line quickly otherwise you will wait a very long time to shoot two arrows!
We spent easily 3 hours exploring the many nooks and crannies, listening to the fascinating audio guide and just taking in the panoramic views. As the day goes on, it gets more crowded making it difficult to get the great photos or to the top of a ruin but still worth a visit! There are shops and restaurants just outside the entrance that sell many local crafts and souvenirs. It's so fun to stroll the streets of what was once the local market. There are several restaurants as well as stalls for faster food so plan on staying for lunch. The views from many nooks and seating areas is breathtaking.
Heads up: Parking can be tough and there is a fee so plan accordingly by bringing coins for the meter.
Picnicking in Provence
Ham and cheese on a baquette tastes incredible outdoors! Sandwiches can be found in just about any small bakery in any small town. We found lavender ice cream on our picnic near the lavender fields of Valensole. Grab a blanket and find an olive grove or a lavender field and enjoy the quiet solitude of the French countryside! It will be one of the best, cheapest escapades you will enjoy!
Theatre Antique
http://www.theatre-antique.com/en/home
This arena is similar to the Coloseum in Rome but on a much smaller, better preserved scale. It is is definitely worth a visit. Conveniently located in Provence, it is an easy drive from either Les Baux or Aix en Provence. We really found the audio guide added a lot to our enjoyment of the grounds and helped with exploring the various areas. They still have concerts that are held there and I can only imagine how amazing it would be to experience one!
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